Disclaimer: I’m not a professional. I’m a hobbyist. This tutorial is meant for those just learning to make costumes. It has been made as a guideline for those who may not have had any exposure to sewing from family, classes, or friends and don’t really know where to begin. These instructions are just one of many ways of getting started, and are not necessarily the method for you. That said, there may still be tips helpful to the intermediate level cosplayer.
Simple Supply List:
- Cutting board
- Rotary Cutter (or Fabric Scissors)
- Paper Scissors
- Marking Pencil (can be chalk, marker, or pencil. MUST WASH-OUT)
- Pins
- Measuring Tape/Plastic Ruler
- Reference
These are some of my preferred list of tools. You don’t have use this exact set up, but they help.
Before you start:
Iron your fabric. It doesn’t have to be perfect, but you should never cut on wrinkled material. The end result may not line up right.
I’m making the assumption that my reader here is new to costuming and using patterns. It’s easiest to start out with a premade pattern and make modifications. Instructions on basic modifying will follow in a later tutorials.
Cut out your pattern with PAPER Scissors. What are paper scissors? NOT the scissors you use on fabric. Cutting paper dulls the edge and ruins fabric scissors. Fabric requires a sharp edge to cut cleanly, so make sure to keep these two cutting tools separate. I have different colored handles on mine to keep them strait.
Fold your fabric right sides together. This means have the fabric side you want visible when the project is done folded inside, and the ‘wrong’ side of the fabric facing up to mark on.
Place your pattern piece on the fabric. My pattern requires I cut 2 of this piece, so I have the fabric folded in half (with the side I don’t want to show facing up).
You can choose to pin the pattern in place or weight it down with objects or sewing weights (these are just little paperweight things used to hold your pattern in place while you mark. You can buy them at a fabric store, or do like me and use stuff out of your supplies). For beginners, pinning the fabric might be easiest, but on delicate fabrics use weights.
Mark the outline of your pattern on the fabric with a WASHABLE marker, chalk, or pencil. Fabric stores carry various types. It is good to have more than one kind. Do a test on your fabric to see how easily the lines are removed before marking on your project. I like using silver because it is visible on many kinds of fabric.
After you have traced the outline of your pattern, make sure to mark darts and other indication points on the pattern. Marking darts can be tedious, so you might want to buy wax paper to transfer the lines on to the pattern. This isn’t always needed, but if your costume calls for it, here is a brief rundown of how to mark darts with wax paper and a roller.
Put the wax paper under the pattern where you need it. Draw or roll over the corresponding lines and points. You may have to go over it several times to get a clear mark.
If you are using a washable fabric marker, you can just draw on the pattern directly over the fabric, and let the ink bleed through. Here I am connecting dots for a dart with this method.
Cutting your pattern out with a rotary is fast and easy. I never thought a rotary would be worth buying until I used one. It is much faster, easier, cleaner, and creates less hand strain than scissors. That said, a nice pair of sewing scissors will work fine. Just don’t use those crummy utility scissors you’ve had in the kitchen for ages and use to open plastic packages and junk. They will eat your fabric.
Now that the pattern piece is cut out, I mark all of my seam allowances. Most US patterns call for a 5/8th inch. Unless the pattern tells you otherwise, this is what you should mark so that when you go to sew, you have a line to follow.
Pin along this line horizontally.
Pull out the pins as you sew.
Finish the raw edges with pinking shears (those zig-zag scissors) or an overlock/serger so you won’t have fraying seams.
If I had to pick one thing I feel is the most important message for a beginning cosplayer it would be this:
Press the seams after you have finished them so they lay nicely. Puckering, unraveling, messy seams can ruin the presentation of a costume. Don’t neglect the parts people don’t see. It makes a difference! Even if it’s patterned well and sewn together correctly, if you don’t take the time to press and finish your seams, the costume will not look it’s best.
